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October 10, 2010 at 2:20 am
From:
JSFarnam@aol.com
To:
dtiquips@clouds.com
8 Oct 10
MPBR:
With most ARs in 223 caliber, I recommend the “40/240″ standard when
setting up sights.
With the rifle perfectly vertical, the initial intersection is set (“zeroed
“) at 40m. Maximum ordinate of 8cm (3″) will occur at 125m. Second
intersection will then occur at 240m. At 260m, the bullet will descend 8cm
below the line of sight.
So, with no sight adjustment mid-fight, your sights will put bullets within
8cm of the point-of-aim between point-blank and 260m.
The Military prefers a “25/300″ standard in an effort to get additional
range, while sacrificing mid-range accuracy. However, for domestic,
defensive shooting, I believe the 40/240 standard makes the most sense. We call it
MPBR (Maximum Point-Blank Range)
However, we must all understand that the foregoing is relevant only with
the rifle is held vertically, and the bullet ascends until it crosses the
line of sight (initial intersection) and then subsequently falls back toward
it as it follows a predictable arc while it is propagated downrange.
What would happen if the rifle were fired while being held upside down?
The initial intersection will still occur at 40m, but the bullet will
subsequently fall away from then line of sight (instead of back toward it),
effectively collapsing MBPR from 260m to less than 100m.
The likelihood of firing one’s rifle upside down may seem remote, but it is
likely we will be compelled to fire with the rifle as much at thirty
degrees out of vertical, particularly when we are compelled to use an awkward
article of cover.
The effect will be that MPBR will be seriously compromised. Within 150m,
we’re probably okay, but at extended ranges, we’ll way off.
With most 223 rifles, this is of no great concern, as terminal
effectiveness diminishes exponentially beyond 150m anyway. However, when compelled to
make shots at ranges beyond 150m, with any caliber, the rifle must be held
straight vertical. Any significant angulation will rapidly collapse
maximum range!
We see this phenomenon regularly when running Urban Rifle exercises where ”
challenging” articles of cover are the only ones available.
/John
What do you think AR guys?
October 10, 2010 at 4:03 am
40 M…about 44 yards I think. Not much different from the 50 yard zero, which I subscribe to. I would as soon stick to 50 yards (vs. 40M) as its a more familiar distance for visual estimation.
In the end, zeros are a “whatever you feel comfortable with” thing in my opinion. If you know where the round will hit at any given distance and you feel confident that you can hit, use whatever you want. I like the 50 yard zero because within the ranges I usually shoot at the variation is only a matter of a couple of inches.
October 22, 2010 at 3:08 pm
Another Farn-ism
From:
jsfarnam@aol.com
To:
undisclosed-recipients
21 Oct 10
AUG Update, from a colleague who works on them:
“There are currently six choices:
1) Steyr AUG A1 – Excellent. Austrian Made. Have not been imported for years, but there are still a few around for sale. Expensive.
2) Steyr AUG A2 – Flat-top version of the A1. Rare, extremely expensive.
3) Steyr USR – ‘Politically correct’ version of the AUG, designed to be importable as a ‘sporting weapon.’ No flash suppressor, silly, thumb-hole stock. Same austrian quality.
4) Steyr AUG A3 – This is the Sabre/Steyr Collaboration. US-made receiver and compliance parts. Everything else is Austrian. Excellent, available, and relatively affordable!
5) Microtech Small Arms Research – Many problems. Not recommended.
6) TPD/AXR – A small, Oregon start-up that made guns using Steyr parts and a forged receiver. They were unable to compete successfully and closed their doors after making only a few rifles. Now out of business.
Best solution for a fighting rifle is the Steyr/Saber A3 with a Aimpoint T1/H1, and with the standard, AUG stock. You’ll still need proprietary (and expensive) AUG magazines.”
Comment: Like the 1911 Pistol, the AUG has garnered a relatively small, but loyal, following. And, it is a wonderful rifle for serious purposes, with few critics. However, it is expensive and, at least for now, out of the mainstream.
/John
December 10, 2011 at 11:53 pm
When you dry fire, I’ve noticed that you use a blue clip which you fire once, tap and then clear the chamber. Do you use this in place of snap caps or is it just a snap cap clip? It looks like when you clear the chamber, nothing pops out. What is that thing and where can I get one?
December 11, 2011 at 3:28 am
Check out this post:
http://tgace.com/2008/11/10/524/